Tuesday, 4 April 2017

Siblings and sibilants: Vero Profumo Naja review

So I caught up with Val the Cookie Queen in Germany at the weekend - of which more in my upcoming travel post...! We had a high old time, as it is impossible not to do in her company, and amongst the cornucopia of perfume samples and decants Val kindly gave me, I was thrilled to find a vial of Naja, the latest release from niche perfume house, Vero Profumo. Not to mention a coordinating promotional beer mat**. 

Without further ado, Val inducted me in the pronunciation of the name. For it is not to be confused with the German compound word 'Naja', which means many subtle variations on 'Well' and 'Okay', and where the 'j' is spoken like a 'y'. Rather it is an amalgam of the deep 'ah' in 'Nah' and the 'dg' in 'badger'. No, wait, it may be the soft 'je' of 'je t'aime'? I may need further tuition...!

One thing I did learn though was that Naja is a 'genus of venomous elapid snakes known as cobras'. As you can well imagine, I had to look up 'elapid' as well while I was about it, and it elapidly became clear that they are a family of snakes characterised by short fangs fixed in the front of the upper jaw. I commend readers to check out this Wikipedia entry on the many different kinds of fang...who knew there was so much to snake dentition?

Such was my excitement to try Naja that I managed to squeeze it into my hand luggage, while the rest of my scented swag went back to Gatwick in the checked bag containing the band merchandise - which is not as handy as it might look, as I flew back to Manchester. I figured I could defer my eagerness to try/use those perfumes for a couple of months till I see the gang again, while my curiosity to try Naja could be contained no longer.

In a (token) reciprocal gesture, I lobbed Val some Cadbury's Mini Eggs and Galaxy chocolate in a few of its surprisingly multifarious guises (focusing in particular on 'no-melt' varieties like Minstrels, in view of the balmy weather that was forecast). And even though I have form for giving Val a purse for this very purpose, I am of the view that the seasoned perfumista can never have too many receptacles for keeping perfume in, so I also gave her a 'snakeskin wallet', a twin nod to the new release and a lyric in one of Val's favourite songs by The Monochrome Set, 'Jet Set Junta', whose gig in Augsburg was the trigger for our meet up:

'Hiss, hiss goes the snakeskin wallet stuffed with Cruziero bills'

I did get as far as googling images of Cruziero banknotes, with a view to printing some off and popping them in the purse, but my desire for verisimilitude fell at the first hurdle when I remembered that I only have a black and white printer. Plus I had already gift wrapped the purse. The nod to Naja wasn't exactly spot on either, as the purse is described as 'anaconda'. They were clean out of Najas unfortunately, or I would have got Val a more on-message serpentine material. Then in a curious turn of events, the bass player in the band mentioned that he happens to own a whole python skin - though crucially not why - which he would happily have donated to Vero for promotional purposes at the Milan show, had the new scent been about non-venomous snakes with aglyphous teeth rather than our proteroglyphous fanged friends.

Source: Now Smell This 

Before slithering and meandering my way finally to my impressions of the scent itself - I know, I know, I am the oxbow lake of bloggers! - I must firstly say that there very nearly wasn't a post about Naja at all. Oh yes. For the morning after I got home, I could not find my sample, presumed knocked off the chest of drawers by Truffle and batted into oblivion. The most I might have been able to say would have been: "It rolls well." But then to my huge relief I found it nestling in a relatively cat proof tea light holder on my desk.

Snaky lakes ~ Source: Wikipedia

And in the spirit of full disclosure I feel I have to mention that I do not care for snakes. I am not quite as frightened of them as spiders, but not far off. Let's just say that I didn't linger in Liz Moores' snake room longer than it took to clock that they were safely tucked away in drawers - and liked a drop of beer. My uneasiness around snakes pales into comparison, however, besides my father's outright phobia, of which I may have inherited a diluted version. He couldn't bear to see any representation of a snake, never mind the real thing. Even the sight of my brother's knitted toy snake - adventurously known as 'Snakey' - would instil 'horror and terror of the first water' (in himself this time). My mother knitted Snakey (who must be knocking on for 55 now?) for my brother, possibly before she knew of Father's phobia - or maybe out of sheer mischief - we may never know...

Photo by my SIL, Hazel 

And I mention Snakey specifically because he is a quintessentiial toy from my childhood, even though he was owned by my brother. Asp a toy - ooh, a Freudian typo, I might leave that in! - Snakey is a woolly oxymoron of 'cuddly reptile', and it is very much this vibe which Naja embodies. It is warm and enveloping, thick and faintly fuzzy, like a blanket made of khaki serge. Take the splayed flat head of a cobra and stretch it out further and further till it wraps completely around you, like those automatic toilet doors on the trains that are also a big part of my gig related travels. Coincidentally, in view of the tie in with Val, the teddy on the right in the picture below is actually called 'Austrian' - purchased by my parents in Innsbruck. Of the two, I'd say Snakey has worn better.

Photo by my SIL, Hazel

Texturally Naja reminds me of the drydown of Puredistance White, though not its smell. And also of Rozy Voile d'Extrait, to pick a scent analogy closer to home. Or - on account of the peachy/apricot facet - a harmonious SL Daim Blond, say - for Daim Blond sadly leant towards raspy on me until the far drydown, prompting me to liken it to 'suede-scented white noise'.

Notes: osmanthus absolute, tobacco, linden blossom and melon

On first application, Naja goes straight to the tobacco-forward basenotes on my skin. At this point it has a lot of heft, and I even wondered if it might be one of those 'contemplative heavy hitters' like Papillon Perfumes' Anubis. I get an intense and pleasantly powdery cloud of tobacco for a while - which brings back a whoosh of memories of defiantly smoky music venues in Germany - boasting every kind of smoke indeed, including the more underground / wacky baccy ilk....;) 

Then gradually Naja begins its stately backward trajectory, and shafts of fruit poke through the mist, tantalisingly unidentifiable to my nose, but reminiscent of faintly sherbety and sweet confectionery from my youth. Yes, just add newspapers and Naja neatly covers the full spectrum of the CTN on the corner of Belmont Church Road. We could perhaps call it: 'Confectionery Tobacco Naja'. I am thinking Pez sweets maybe, or fruit salad chews*, and I do get a hint of lime - and maybe of melon - at one point, but the wafts come and go like shooting stars, and I never trust my nose at the best of times. Melonphobics have nothing to fear from Naja, I will say that. The inclusion of that note helps to lift the tobacco and create a feeling of airy expansiveness within the composition.

Heart over our heads courtesy of Val

Gradually the balance between the heavier tobacco and the lighter, more radiant fruit swings more towards the latter and the drydown is sunny and winsome, while never losing its gravitas and smoky mystique - which is a pretty nifty conjuring trick, to be fair. That said, the tobacco remains the dominant note on my skin all the way through. It is of course also possible that I have tobacco amplifying skin! 

Now Mito Voile d'Extrait was my favourite up to now from Vero's line, but I can see Naja giving it a run for its money. I like it so much that I even succumbed to the insidious obsidian appeal of its opaque bottle. ;)

So there you have it - Naja: a cobra to cosy up with in beguiling black livery; a disarming charmer; and most impressively - considering that at this point I had not even sniffed it - the beating scented heart of an 'epic' weekend (as Val might say) with dear friends.

In a word - atramendous...

Last drink at the Grand Hotel Cosmopolis

* Editor's note: See also my exchange with Lady Jane Grey in the comments below

**Editor's note: Val has just explained that the beer mat is in fact a scent strip for spraying Naja on - so there's another shape to add to my blog post on perfume blotters if I could ever find it again!


The Scented Hound said...

All you had to do was mention Puredistance White and I was sold. Can't wait to check out Naja. I love the fact that Vero's creations are slow to come...and definitely worth the wait!

Blacknall Allen said...

Naja...does this have anything do with the hindustani word for snake nag? (as in Nag and Nagina the cobra couple in Rikki Tikki Tavi?)

Anyway Naja sounds much more livable than Onda with which I cohabited for a week! Really like Snakey, we have a much spurned cat toy called Brown along much the same lines, Charcoal seems to feel about snakes the way your father did.

Vanessa said...

Hi Steve,

I do remember your liking that one. Definitely a similar atmosphere / 'thickness' if that makes sense, but obviously much different notes. A sort of murky radiance, in a good way.

Vanessa said...

Hi Blacknall,

Given that I hadn't even heard of Naja meaning cobra, you are asking the wrong person, hehe. Though funnily enough I recently bought a vintage copy of The Jungle Book from the 60s, as it was a distinct gap in my library.

Yes, that Onda experiment is coming back to me now. To do with self-imposed scent loyalty I think it was? I would like to see a picture of Brown sometime? He sounds as though he has 'history' all right too. ;)

AustralianPerfumeJunkies said...

Hey Vanessa,

Loved Naja in passing at the Essence but need to spend some quality time with it to really get to know it.
In other news the orange striped beany that I bought from you for my girl friend was a huge hit and looks terrific on. There will be loads of winter shots with it perched upon her lovely head I'm sure.
Portia x

lady jane grey said...

Hm, I don't know. I'm afraid of tobacco... (and PEZ...)

Vanessa said...

Hi Portia,

Oh yes, I think it is worth spending quality time with, based on my two days so far.

And great news about the beanie! Roll on the winter - I look forward to seeing it on your friend. x

Vanessa said...

Hi Lady Jane Grey,

Don't be afraid - I am not a mad fan of tobacco scents as a rule, yet recently I fell for Immortal Beloved by House of Cherry Bomb and now this one. Naja is a really bright, wearable tobacco perfume I would say - quite unusually in the genre.

Robert said...

Looking forward to trying this one, but the question remains....WHAT ABOUT THE COOKIES??!! 😍😍😍

Vanessa said...

Oh, and best not to take my confectionery associations too literally - the fruity facets were shapeshifters I found hard to pin down. The linden/lime is probably responsible for the hint of sherbet while the others were more rounded and sweet. It was more a hologram in my mind than a very definite impression. And nothing remotely artificial about the ingredients in the perfume, which I fear may not have been true of my childhood sweets!

Vanessa said...

Hi Robert,

I hope you are as charmed by this one as I was when you catch up with it.

Ah, Val effected a last minute substitution on the cookie front. Full coverage in my travel post that is up next!

Anonymous said...

NAJA comes from the Sanskrit nāga simply meaning snake. CQ xxxxx

Anonymous said...

Twenty-four hours of humming Jet Set Junta and I'm about ready to be committed. Photo of Snakey by your SIL is superb. What else can I say? Waiting for a bound book of all your posts ..... Off to spin the roulette wheel. xxx

Tara said...

Great stuff, V! Happy you liked Naja a lot too. I had no idea it was a type of snake or how it was pronounced so I consider myself edumacated :)
Interesting that it was tobacco from the get-go for you, whereas I got loads of lime at the start.
Snakey is fab and reminded me that I had a cuddly snake called Monty Python which I won at a fun fair in Devon on holiday. Is that a photo of you and your brother? It's gorgeous.

Vanessa said...

Haha, Val, I'd know you anywhere...The Snakey shoot was inspired. I gave Hazel free rein in terms of artistic direction and she ran with it brilliantly. ;)

If I produced a bound book of my posts, I might be committed, hehe. xxx

Vanessa said...

Hi Tara,

I remembered your getting more lime at the start, and I do think it is fascinating how differently notes are absorbed on different people's skin - and at what rates. Glad the fruit made its appearance by and by, though it was hard to distinguish what was what. Really really like Naja.

It is a photo of Roger and me, yes. I would have been about 11 or 12 and he would have been 17 or 18 at a guess? Love the sound of Monty Python! Excellent name.

Undina said...

"Cuddly reptile" is probably the only type that I would consider as harmless :) The one on the picture could be probably used as a draft-prevention device (if your SIL were to put it along the door).

I'm very curious about Naja - regardless of the result: Val loves this brand for several of us, so I just have to keep trying all new perfumes they release. Oh, and the bottle looks very stylish - even though I also do not favor opaque "receptacles" :)

Vanessa said...

Thanks for that, CQ! xxx

Vanessa said...

Hi Undina,

LOL at Snakey's draught prevention potential. I sense you might need a brace of Snakeys to get a good insulating effect. Or Snakey after a big meal, hehe.

Val does love this brand for several of us! I can't wait to get your take on Naja - I do think it is very accessible for any fans of tobacco.

Val and I have been having an interesting discussion today on the meaning of 'opaque', actually, and whether it is less solid than 'solid'.

Unknown said...

I am most intrigued by Naja. Seems like one of those scents....

Vanessa said...

I would say exactly that!