Tuesday 10 January 2023

Perfumes in purdah: Les Néréides Impérial Opoponax (the sequel), Prada Candy, and Guerlain Shalimar Millésime Tonka

Sniffing Truffle's head


I'm back! A belated Happy New Year to everyone.

Nearly two months to the day since my last post - possibly the longest hiatus in the 13 year history of Bonkers about Perfume (or one of them) - and I am now attempting to type a full draft in the normal way for the first time, and see how that feels. The conservative approach I was recommended to take by the osteopath of cancelling all social plans and leading such a quiet life that it could qualify as a "retreat" appears to have paid off, and I am much better now. I have at last re-mastered the arts of driving, housework, shopping, knitting, and pretty much every other manoeuvre in everyday life except manhandling the loft ladder and opening tins. I wouldn't want to drive many miles yet, or knit a whole scarf in a day, but I am well up to dipping my toe back into these abandoned activities.

Yes, "retreat" is a good word...or "purdah" might be another to describe this strange time I have spent away from society. I hasten to add that I mean "purdah" in the generic sense of "seclusion", and not the practice in certain Muslim and Hindu societies of screening women from men or strangers, especially by means of a curtain, in case I lay myself open to charges of cultural appropriation. That said, I did acquire a front door curtain in December.




Les Néréides Impérial Opoponax (the sequel)

Notes: citrus notes, opoponax, benzoin, vanilla, amber, sandalwood

In my last post I mentioned how much I had enjoyed wearing Les Néréides Opoponax most days until my decant ran out. I would like to give Rachael Potts (whose decant it was), a shout out for kindly donating the rest of her bottle when the Royal Mail stirred into life in the New Year. The bottle is called "Impérial Opoponax", while I referred to this scent as plain "Opoponax" in the previous post. I have since learnt that the name was simplified over time, and Rachael's bottle has the original one on it. I am glad I didn't erroneously strip the perfume of its lofty rank - that would be like referring to the Duke of Sussex as Harry Windsor, though it is tempting.



Prada Candy

Notes: musk, benzoin, caramel (I daresay there are more than these!)

When I first found myself without Impérial Opoponax - and notwithstanding the fact that I have some 60 bottles to my name and countless other decants and samples - I felt bereft, and as though I didn't know what to wear now(!), for I was really craving something in that purring vanillic vein. Then at the end of November I spied a bottle of Prada Candy in a discount chemist in town - 30ml for £34.99. Ever since its launch, and despite loving the scent with its cosseting toffee haze, I had not felt I could justify the cost of a 50ml bottle, and had never come across the smaller format, never mind at the magic price of (more or less) £1 for 1ml, which used to be the norm back in the day, even for niche scents.

Despite this great deal, I continued to wrestle with my conscience and fought the urge to buy it, for based on current stock levels I will never need to acquire any more perfume in my life again. Though I realise that it depends very much on what you mean by "need". Plus I was in pain and deserved a treat. So I decided to let the decision be made by Victoria of Boisdejasmin, whose taste in fragrance has proved down the years to be spookily congruent with my own. I said to myself that if she had awarded Prada Candy four stars in her review (I didn't doubt that there would be one) I would take that as a sign that I should proceed with my purchase. And of course she had, haha...;)




Oh,and look what Colbourne, a reviewer on Basenotes, had to say about the opoponax note  - he mentions "toffee", which is of course in Candy. And props to him too for giving "effulgent" a rare outing in any context: 

"an exudate from the Commiphora eyrthraea tree, this resin has sensuous warmth, a sweetness of toffee contrasted with bitter, leafy herbal undertones, powdery, efflulgent, yet rich, mythic."

Guerlain Shalimar Millésime Tonka

Notes: bergamot, almond, rum, iris, jasmine, rose, tonka bean, vanilla and opopanine.

I am very out of touch with perfume releases - never more so than in recent months - yet my purdah was penetrated by news of this new Shalimar release from sources both sides of the pond, and as a born again lover of Shalimar in most of its incarnations, I immediately dropped £9 on a tiny sample from Etsy. I should point out that I was feeling a bit delicate on the day I tested it, but while the notes sounded promising, and as though Millésime Tonka might serve as yet another comfort scent in this reclusive period, the reality on my skin was a disappointment and triggered an instant headache. The composition was hijacked by an off-kilter accord I can best describe as furry lighter fuel. A bit like my experience with Tauer's Lonestar Memories, which also has jasmine, tonka bean and myrrh, but is way more fizzy. 

I think a retrial is definitely in order, so here goes...

Okay, no headache and no unpleasant notes, but Millésime Tonka is darker and murkier than the original, and a little more bitter.almondy maybe? I think it is probably absolutely fine though, like a "Shalimar Noir" if there was such a thing, and it may only be a question of time. I will wear and enjoy this sample and get my money's worth. For nine quid for 1ml is a bit steep to shell out even on a prize lemming. I think feeling as I did when I first tried it, frankly any perfume might have triggered the headache, and this version is rather rich to be fair.

And now see what another Basenotes reviewer, Shahbaz_2009, says of Impérial Opoponax, comparing it to Shalimar!

"Upon spraying we are hit with the familiar bergamot-lemon-cream opening,which is very sweet and almost reminiscent of Vintage Shalimar and Oscar"

Eyeballing the notes, there appears to be an opopanax-esque component. I have been unable to google the word to clarify the point, however, as my search keeps defaulting to "dopamine".

So it is clear that while ill I was drawn to fragrances with quite a lot of compositional crossover without realising it...vanilla-forward, toffee-ish purrfumes, we could perhaps call them.


Source: Fragrantica

In closing, I would like to thank all my friends and neighbours (not that they are likely to be reading this) for acting as a spare pair of arms in so many useful ways over the past few months - it was a huge help. And Truffle, for sitting on me so comprehensively in what seemed at least like an empathic way. I am sorry to report that her head that I am sniffing in the photo smelt unmistakably of wee - clearly not her own as that would entail a feat of gymnastics beyond the capability of even her athletic frame.

Lastly it occurred to me that I must be feeling better to embrace the right royal faff of adding accents to two of the three perfumes featured, especially the Impérial Opoponax, which has three on its own!

18 comments:

Ines said...

Great to hear you're feeling better and getting back into normal routine.
This Shalimar keeps popping up everywhere, I will have to give it a try.

Anonymous said...

Welcome back! Take it slowly, and carry on gently sniffing Truffle's head. I think wee is slightly preferable to what my girl cat smells of at present (sensitive tummy). Although a little of my husband's Habit Rouge has rubbed off on her.
Jillie

Vanessa said...

Hi Ines,

Thank you, it is great to be doing things more independently at last. My arm does ache after yesterday's typing marathon, but nowhere near as badly as it would have done before.

Knowing your taste leans more to the dark and quirky side I think you will like the Shalimar.

Vanessa said...

Hi Jillie,

Thanks, slow and steady is the way to go, so I should really curb my eagerness to be up and at 'em. ;)

Sorry to learn of your cat's indisposition - Habit Rouge is a lovely scent, though - I have a decant of the edc and enjoy it from time to time,

Anonymous said...

Hi V
Very relieved to hear you're feeling better after the imposed rest. For someone as active as you it must have been very hard to deal with your retreat from daily life.

I always loved the smoky puff of opoponax in Shalimar. I won't try the new flanker though as tonka does indeed snell like bitter almond to me, a nemesis note of mine.

Tara

Unknown said...

Hi Vanessa,
Very glad to hear you are back in the realm of blogging - always enjoy your posts. I too am an admirer of Shalimar in all it's iterations - I will also splurge on some Millesme Tonka - I do enjoy an almond note in frags.
Carry on sniffing !
Holly

Vanessa said...

Hi Tara,

It was a big struggle to give up an active life and be dependent on friends, though they were all great, and a big part of my recovery.

Interesting about your reaction to tonka bean...I have to be careful with heliotrope, which can also overwhelm a composition in an almondy way. Am testing the Guerlain today again and it is perfectly nice, just a moodier take on Shalimar.

Vanessa said...

Hi Holly,

Are you the soap maker of that name, by any chance, who has been to my house? ;)

It is great to be able to blog - and type - again, and I Sounds like Millesime Tonka will hit the spot for you. Thanks for your encouragement.

Anonymous said...

So happy to hear that you are feeling better! Kudos to Truffles (and friends!) for being such a great nurse and your door curtain looks lovely. The Guerlain number sounds intriguing and I am glad that you got Oponax and Candy refuelled, so to speak. As others have written, please do take things slowly. Joyce

teardrop said...

Welcome back Vanessa, what a joy to see you writing again! And I love the adorable pic of you & Truffle. Do take things slowly & I hope your recovery will soon be complete. Wishing you a Happy & healthy 2023!

Vanessa said...

Hi Joyce,

Nice to hear from you and thanks for your kind comments. I saw the consultant again today and he gave me his blessing to go forth and resume my old life. I will, however, do so with caution...;)

Vanessa said...

Hi teardrop,

Aww, thank you for your lovely comment - it is great to be back and to hear people would like me to carry on with Bonkers despite the long interval.

Anonymous said...

Hi Vanessa,

Excellent news from the consultant!

On the perfume front, your blog is chiefly responsible for my ordering samples of Mogador, Juniper Sling, Ambre Narguile, and of course, the Songes from earlier on. Will update when I receive them :)

Joyce

Portia said...

Hey Vanessa,
Excellent news about your mobility. YAY!

You now have me lemming Candy. Yes, I too have low key loved it for years and never purchased. Maybe it's time to get it back on my skin and see if it needs to join the ranks.
Portia x

Vanessa said...

Hi Joyce,

Yes, I feel I have been officially given my normal life back.

Ooh, re the samples, big responsibility! I hope you like at least one of those...;) I do also recommend cross-checking any tips of mine with Boisdejasmin, as I did before my Candy purchase.

Vanessa said...

Hi Portia,

Liking your expression "low key loved". ;) I think I would have sprung for a bottle long before if I had chanced upon a smaller format.

Undina said...

While I’m delighted to see you here and read your news (and just read you), please be careful and don’t “overdo” it!

It was a surprise for me how much I liked that most recent flanker. But by the time I tried it, it couldn’t be found anywhere. So, it looks like I’ll still be without any Shalimar in my collection.

Do you have to wait for the natural cat’s self-cleaning, or are you able to wash/wipe it off? Being an indoor cat, Rusty smells very pleasant (when he’s well).

Vanessa said...

Hi Undina,

Thanks for the reminder not to overdo it - I know I must be careful, as exciting as it is to get my old life back. The underlying conditions in my neck do mean I will always have a predisposition to a recurrence of the problem.

I didn't know the new flanker had been so popular! No wonder my 1ml cost £9.

I could have tried washing her head but luckily she had cleaned it soon afterwards, or maybe had been rained on. ;)