|El Celler de Can Roca|
|Can't be too dwarf enough for me.|
But what caught my eye in this extensive and gastrononomically envelope-pushing menu was one of the four desserts. At least I assume they were all desserts - I am going by the natural break in the text between those four items and 'pigeon with mole poblano sauce and charcoal-grilled strawberries'. Though with strawberries in there too it really is anyone's guess!. And hopefully no actual moles, as the poor creatures wouldn't have seen that posthumous pigeon-paring coming, God love 'em.
Yes, the dessert that caught my eye was: 'A fragrance adapted: Shalimar by Guerlain'.
Pardon?? A flurry of googling later, I learnt that the pastry chef, Jordi Roca, has got form for making desserts that conjure up well-known perfumes. He had a crack at Calvin Klein's Eternity (which wouldn't have been my first pick, I must say), capturing 'the volatile soul of a perfume, deciphering the formula and adapting it to an edible reality'.
Jordi went on to devise a whole slew of desserts based on scents, from houses such as DKNY, Caroline Herrera, Hermès, Lancôme and Bvlgari. I gather he had a spot of bother replicating Chanel No 5, as well he might really(!), even if he was armed with the culinary equivalent of a gas chromatograph ;-). Okay, I am being silly - I don't actually know how he went about his fragrance deconstruction.
|DKNY perfume dessert - strange but true!|
I found this description of a Terre d'Hermes-themed dessert on a Thai gastroblog called Sfreelife:
' Jordi had to distill the earth and pour the clear liquid over the chocolate-orange heavenly combination. The other key elements include patchouli, jasmine, pomelo, shiso and beetroot leaf.'
There's foodie verisimilitude for you... Jordi's edible perfume creations even include Angel by Thierry Mugler - shudder. There again, maybe it would be better eaten rather than worn? And in a nice touch diners are also given a paper cone with the actual perfume sprayed inside to compare against the dessert they are eating.
|DKNY perfume sample cones|
Then in an intriguing reverse twist, there is also an actual perfume you can buy, inspired by a lemon dessert from the restaurant ie a case of perfume imitating pudding rather than the other way about. It is called Núvol de Llimona or 'lemon cloud', and the dessert on which it is based is 'Lemon Distillation'. Bizarre as this may sound - though let's face it, everything about this restaurant is a little left field - the perfume was designed to be sprayed as a mist over diners as they ate the dish. Now that might be a case of sensory overload, I'm not sure. Olfactoria recently asked the question about what perfumes you pair with food, but this is taking the notion a step further.
Here is a description from the Roca Perfumes site:
'With the co-operation of perfumer Agustí Vidal, Jordi has captured the essence of the dish, a “lemon muffin soaked in milk”, and has successfully encapsulated its flavour in a bottle of fragrance.
Top notes: bergamot, tangerine
Middle notes: lily of the valley, milk, custard
Base notes: sugar syrup, toasted sugar, musk'
Oh - guess what? My googling of images uncovered a post by Judith of The Unseen Censer - she has tried the perfume AND met both Jordi and the perfumer in Barcelona! Seems like Núvol de Llimona gets a thumbs up from her, although she had issues with its longevity. But she gves props to Jordi and the perfumer for avoiding a 'Lemon Pledge' note - that alone is indeed some feat.
So I have to ask - is there any perfume whose gastronomic interpretation you would like to eat - or any dessert you would like to wear as a perfume?
After all, there are a number of gourmand dessert-y scents around, so the latter route at least is fairly well trodden.
But going back to the Times article that caught me eye, eating Shalimar would be an altogether different matter in my view. Especially if Jordi managed to replicate the civet...
Finally, here is a photo of the great man himself - a little bit edible himself, you might say.
|Jordii Roca: fragrantly - and flagrantly - smooth operator|
Photo of El Celler de Can Roca from Wikimedia Commons via e_calamar, photos of bonsai tree, DKNY dessert and perfume cone samples from Flickr Creative Commons via Robert Young, photo of Núvol de Llimona from Fragrantica, photo of Jordi Roca from halfpriceperfumes.co.uk.